Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Malnad Cycling Tour

"And i was riding bit fast through the downhill. It was lush Green everywhere, no vehicles, no pollution, no humans, no one except I and (Steve).I was rolling down with (Steve) at the speed of more than 60 KMPH and at one point, i exactly remember those 5 minutes of breath i inhaled. Believe me, i never experienced inhaling such a pure oxygen in my life time. I felt a different kind of experience. May be i was in a state of Euphoria..."

Welcome to my write-up of 4 days of Malnad Cycling Tour!



One day, i saw some pictures of the CTC Trek posted by Peter in his Facebook wall and i commented 'I miss Chennai a lot after seeing pictures of CTC Trek. Now i regret moving to Bangalore'. And in 2 days, i saw a FB notification from a person named 'Nobal Mohan' from the Bangalore Triathlon FB Page. By then, i don't know Nobal. He tagged me in one of his post which said '4 Days Malnad Cycling Tour'.Immediately i added him in my friends list and got the details about the trip. With my goal of doing the 'Tour Of Nilgris' (TFN) cycling tour in December, i decided to go for this tour and confirmed my presence to Nobal. And there were 3 other friends too(Ambika, Supraja and Vipin) who joined the mailing chain for the tour.
I planned todo this tour in my Road bike(Specialized Allez Elite aka STEVE) to condition my body in the saddle as a practice ride for TFN and i heard all others planning to come with their sturdy MTB.
With chain of mails around the preparation for the tour and ticket bookings done, we were all set for the tour.

The plan was to leave Bangalore on Nov 13th Wednesday night and arrive back on Nov 18th Monday morning with plans of doing 4 days cycling in western ghats. Vipin planned to join us from Day-3,so remaining 4 of us started the trip from Bangalore. We reached Bangalore Majestic Bus stand by 10'O Clock and boarded the KSRTC Airawat Volvo Bus after loading our bikes in the luggage box. It costed around Rs.400 to load 4 BiCycles as part of luggage. Believe me loading the BiCycle in the bus is an art and Nobal was good at it. And the journey to 4 days cycling tour started there at 10:30 PM.

Day 1 14/11/2013 - Chikmagalur to Horanadu

We reached Chikmagalur Bus stand at around 4 AM. Nobal realized that there was a flat in his front tyre and he immediately changed the tube. By that time, i realized i forgot to take my spare tube with me for the tour.It was very cold and we decided to start once the fog goes away. Finally we started the ride towards Horanadu at around 5:30 AM. Nobal was the organizer of this tour and he already planned a route and loaded the maps in his Garmin GPS. So, we are aware of where we want togo and how togo too :)


Slowly we started pedaling through the roads covered by trees on both sides with the lights on. I was leading the group from the start, reason being i was on a roadie bike and with a back pack that weigh around 8 KG.
I was going in front in my Specialized, followed by Nobal in his Schwin and then Ambika with her Scott and Supraja with Trek. After few kilometers, is saw the Chikmagalur Serai Resort on my left which reminded me my last team outbound i been there in November 2012. I was warming up with my roadie listening to my body and was riding slowly. I had my iPod touch in my sleeve pocket with which i clicked photographs while riding. I found it very comfortable to catch the memories without stopping the ride.


I realized it was going to be a different kind of riding experience for me as most of the times, i did my long rides in the Highways. With so many thoughts in mind running already how the next 4 days are going to be,i kept on pedaling.I enjoyed doing it. Then it was around 7 AM, we reached Aldur and we found a small hotel that was open for breakfast. I stopped and waited for others. I checked with Nobal and then we decided to have early breakfast reason being we are not sure to find any other hotels going ahead.

After finishing our breakfast(Idly+crispy vada) we started the ride again.Forgot to mention, there were lot of kids looking at our bikes curiously while we were having breakfast and i noticed one notorious kid has already played with rear break lock, when i realized i was not able to move further. Then i started the ride unlocking the same.I took my Forclaz 22 AIR backpack for the trip and i found it compact meeting my needs for the 4 days covering  1 full sleeve + 1 padded shorts + 2 tees and 2 shorts + a towel + a raincoat + a small utility bag.

We kept on riding further and i had tuned my mind saying that this is not going to be a intense practice ride but it is going to be a tour and to be with the group. So, i was going ahead with moderate speed and stopping for almost every 10 kilometers or whenever i found some interesting scenery on the way, for others to join. Once they come, we took photographs, had a chat, rested for sometime and went ahead. The same thing was repeated for almost all days of the tour.

Watching the nature all through the ride, we kept on riding and its worth to mention about our two women riders. They were equally riding at our speed. It was a surprise to me and it changed my assumptions i had earlier. I was very conscious about the nutrition and hydration during the ride. So was  sipping my water bottle for every 30 minutes and munching energy bar/banana for every 1 hour.

At around 9:30 AM, we found a nice paddy fields with smalls walls in the road and we stopped there took a power nap for around 40 minutes. I was playing with a doggy by communicating in our own language.
We took some nice photographs, had some snacks that everyone bought, rested and started pedaling again.

It was altogether a new experience in cycling for me.I normally focused on building my strength, improving my time over the practice rides in the highway and this tour i was enjoying through the nature not focusing big on the time/anything else. That was a good feeling.

At around 11 AM, we stopped at Badra coffee shop aside Badra River near Balehonnur. We had a small lunch there in-form of mangalore bun/omlettes/coffee/juice, all priced at less than Rs.20 per unit. I highly recommend anyone going by this route to stop and have a coffee here.It was worth it.

Again i was leading the group in front with my comfortable speed and was riding for around an hour and more and i stopped for regrouping with others when i found a river on my left on the Magundi-Balehole road stretch. The roads in this stretch were not road bike friendly but a good test for MTB.
Once everyone reached, we decided to take a dip in the flowing water.We spent around 1 hour here relaxing ourselves in the water and we started again at 2 PM deciding that we wont stop further occasionally.But we broke such promises all through the riding days as it tempted us to stop and take photographs of the nature every now and then. We stopped for every 1 hour and sometimes for every 30 minutes and enjoyed the nature munching some snacks complimented with rides. It was by then 4'o clock.

I was looking forward to suffer through the climbs when i signed in for this tour and i was so happy to whenever i see some climbs though not major ones. With some bit of climbs to close the day, we finally reached Horanadu at round 6'o clock to end the planned ride for the day. We found a shop and we had apricot juices and to a surprise we paid Rs.30 per juice. Supraja won't forget it. Why i mention her here, is because she is the typical Indian Bargainer, wherever we went.

Finally we found a good home stay on the way and we checked about the fare and we took 2 rooms costing Rs.400 per room. After a good shower in hot water and refreshing ourselves, we went for the Dinner. We were informed that, the Annapoorneshwari temple serves free dinner for everyone starting from 7 PM. Since Supraja wanted to taste that dinner, Myself and Supraja had dinner there while Nobal and Ambika had dinner in a hotel. And yes Supraja had one more dosa in hotel post dinner at Temple. That's the secret behind her power rides whole through the day.

That ends the first day of the tour riding 90KM with a good sleep in a cold weather in the night at Sri Matha Home Stay, Horanadu.


Day 2  15/11/2013 - Horanadu to Sringeri

It was 6 AM, when we woke up and it was full of fogs and mist outside so Nobal suggested to start once the fog is cleared and there is a better visibility on the road. We had bed coffee and got ready and we left the home stay at around 8 and finished a heavy breakfast. Our standard items in breakfast wherever we went are IDLY+VADA+ CHOW CHOW BATH(Nobal's favourite?).

That being said, we started our second day ride towards Sringeri. The plan was ride via Kudremukh. It took some 1 hour to cross the Horanadu town and i was going ahead with a bit decent climbs on the way. Though i had the advantage of minimal weight of the bike, my gear ratio is not that great for climbs like MTB. But as i mentioned earlier i enjoyed whenever we saw the climbs and was riding through it without stops.



After an hour of ride, there was a deviation as mentioned by Nobal which will take us to Kudremukh hills. So, i stopped at the deviation and went to bakery to fill in my water bottle waiting for the others to come. Only after calling Supraja after sometime i realized, i overlooked so that they have already crossed that point in the meanwhile. So, i started riding fast to catch up with them. After some time, we were out of town again riding through the complete scenery covered with greenery everywhere. After some distance, i saw Ambika and Supraja riding through the rolling terrain. As usual, i was literally flying through the rolling terrain with my SPECIALIZED and i saw that some part of the roads had potholes. I exactly remember that one pot hole through which my front wheel had a hit as i pass by. After some distance i stopped just to see that my tyre had a flat. Supraja and Ambika crossed by then. 

Now comes the interesting part of the tour. I never fixed a flat/my bike never had a flat during the rides. And Nobal was in front crossing some distance ahead. And as i mentioned, i didn't bring along a spare tube with me. I asked Ambika and Supraja to leave and i said i will inflate the tyre and try riding. Once they left, i again saw the air went out and now it is very clear that it was a puncture. Believe me, fixing the flat in the tyres for the first time is like doing surgery for the first time. I kept aside my bike. Good that the pucture was in front wheel and not rear. I removed the front wheel, removed the tyre and tube. I tried to inflate with the air pump i brought in, but nothing happened. I never checked the condition of the pump before the tour. Lessons learnt! Now started the mind game. Already lot of thoughts running through my mind. Since i was unable to inflate air, i thought tube lining or the valve region is damaged. If that's the case, i have to replace the tube and i don't have a tube to replace. And i cannot expect a Decathlon shop in Kudremukh hills where i can buy a tube. I was literally confused and highly disappointed that my whole trip got spoiled just on the start of the 2nd day of the 4 days cycling tour. Adding to those disappointments, i got irritated while trying to put in the Tyre in the wheel. It took me 1 hour to go through this phase. I was not able to reach anyone's phone as there is no network in mine in that area. Finally decided to put in my bike in some vehicle and reach the point until i see anyone of the riders in the group.

Luckily i found a auto-rickshaw in few minutes and myself and and my bike(STEVE) went inside quickly and we went ahead. Believe me, it was a pain in the heart going in motored vehicle in those roads covered with greenery keeping the bike inside the auto. It was around 10KM i travelled, found my riding buddies and i got the hope by now. Nobal also said, that was a wise decision to put the bike in the vehicle in such cases and i heard Nobal rode back some 5KM back to reach out to me. Nice guy he is!
Now he is my Xaviour. He has done lot of surgeries in the past,(fixing the flat tyres). He opened the tube and tyre in no time and he said the problem is with my pump as it is not inflating the tube. Ambika gave her pump which had pressure gauge too and it worked. Now we saw there was a stone puncture as i suspected during the hit on the pothole. I was so happy and bit relieved as the tour is not spoiled and i am going to ride it further. We fixed it and within 5KM, again i saw the air went out. Now again we checked and to our surprise there was another hole nearby the first one which we didn't notice earlier. Again Nobal fixed it and also he adjusted the brakes after sometime.


By now, everything was fine and we went ahead and we have covered less distance than the planned one. We stopped at around 1 PM for lunch near Kudremukh steel company. Not many hotels there so we checked with few passerby and went to one small hotel where we got rice and sambar with appalam.(papat). Post lunch we bought good number of oranges to fill in our stomach during the ride. Since we have to cover more distance in the second half and it was almost a rolling terrain we decided not to take stops. One thing i noticed was every now and then, a bridge over the river. It has become a common experience for us riding through such place during our tour.

Now we were riding through the Shola forests on our left. Thick green grass forests which i have rarely seen earlier. I stopped taking rest there waiting for others to come. Once they came, we took some good photographs. I forgot to mention one thing. Except me, remaining three were vivid trekkers. So they were talking about their experiences of different treks in the western ghats including Kudremukh, Kumaraparvath,  etc.,

Again we started pedaling down the roads and the next stop was at one waterfall where i found lot of monkeys. Now it was completely a dense forest and it was almost 4:00 PM. And i was riding bit fast through the downhill.It was lush Green everywhere, no vehicles, no pollution, no humans, no one except I and (Steve).I was rolling down with (Steve) at the speed of more than 60 KMPH and at one point, i exactly remember those 5 minutes of breath i inhaled. Believe me, i never experienced inhaling such a pure oxygen in my life time. I felt a different kind of experience. May be i was in a state of Euphoria...It was a good stretch of rolling terrain for sometime and we stopped for snacks and coffee in the evening. We realized that it was getting dark and we have to cover around 25 KM.

After climbing up and down for some time and then riding for around 10KM in the dark, we finally reached Sringeri town by 7 PM. We found a accommodation there too in short time and it costed us around Rs.350 per room and we took 2 rooms.

After the same routine-hot water shower and refreshments, we had good dinner in the nearby hotel and went to bed by 9 PM ending the second day trip covering around 85KM.

Day 3  16/11/2013 - Sringeri to Kundapura

We woke up at around usual 6 AM and Vipin joined the 3rd day with us at Sringeri coming from Bangalore. We started the ride at 8:30 AM sharp post breakfast. The planned destination was Hosanagara. And the route for the next 2 days were planned by Vipin as he wanted to ride bit longer to cover the missed first 2 days. Just kidding. He too had a good Garmin GPS and has drafted the route for the day.













Now it has become the routine for us. Get up, have breakfast, get ready with the bike and just keep on riding! That's what we did. We kept on riding with the usual stops for photographs and enjoying the scenery.
The roads were pretty bad in this stretch. Not a good sign for roadie but a good test for MTB guys.

With bit of struggles on the saddle, i crossed those bad stretches and finally we stopped at a lake for a short dip. Nobal found lot of Jelly Fishes in that open water and it seems it is very rare to spot such Jelly fishes in the open water. We were lucky then. By then it was almost 12'O clock and we left the place and had a good long ride for almost 2 hours to stop by for lunch at a place called Edur. It was rare to find any hotels here so we got into one hotel where we got rice/sambar with one veggie curry. Believe me, during the tour after long rides, any food tastes good for the taste buds.

Post lunch, we found a banyan tree nearby where we took a power nap for around 30 minutes. That was a great refresher. Again we started the ride and i was bit sleepy during the ride till the coffee point at Hulikal. We stopped at Hulikal and few had Tender Coconut and few had Coffee. I had double Coffee to come out of the sleeping mode. Now comes the turning point in the tour. We enquired one tea shop guy about hotel stay in Hosanagara and his advice to us was not to goto Hosanagara but he suggested us to goto  Siddapura instead. the reasons he gave was the roads were not good and for going to Kundapura next day, we have to anyway ride back again in that route. Instead he said, we will find hotels in Siddapura and the roads were also better.

We followed his words though Vipin was not that convinced about it. But finally he was also ok with it. So we deviated from the original plan. Again after crossing some stretches of bad roads, we reached the reserved forest area. We never expected it to be one hell of a long rolling terrain. We all five were actually flying in that road with our bikes. I was so conscious about the pot holes during the downhill from the experience of Day-2. Sometimes, people say things happen out of our control right? Same in my case. Though i was so conscious, the front Tyre had hit through a pot hole. And i am already sure that there will be a flat soon. Sometimes, my intuition goes right. After some distance i stopped the bike. Yes, it was a flat.


All those 4 nice chaps stopped for me and our surgeon Nobal started the surgery and fixed the flat. Again it was two small holes in the same place as it was a stone puncture.


I own him a beer for fixing my flats for two consecutive days! I am sure i will do my home work and will be perfectly fit to be a surgeon during my next ride. We started again and on the way, we found a peak where we get to see a good view of sunset behind the mountains. It was a remarkable view so everyone of us took their profile pics here.

Again we started rolling down the roads for some more stretch and we finally reached the destination Siddapura at 6:30 PM. We were searching for hotel stays as mentioned by the shopkeeper in hulikal but to our surprise it was a small town and no hotel stays available. Myself and Nobal went to find one stay where 1 room is available but considering the safety aspect and comfort, Nobal took the call to reach Kundapura the same night loading the bikes in the vehicle. That was a wise decision. That means our ride is going to end there at siddapura as Kundapura is near coast and its a big town so no rides next day.

We had dinner. I found it hard to find a vegetarian  hotel but found one and had Neer Dosai/Idly. It was yummy. The locals were supportive and one gentleman called some vehicle guy and he came exactly at 7:30 PM. So, post dinner, we loaded all the bikes and we too sat in the TATA ACE and the drive was around 35 KM to Kundapura form there. We paid Rs.800 for the vehicle guy.

We checked in at Hotel ShivPrasad at around 9 PM ending the ride for the 3rd day with no idea about 4th day plans.But yes, i had a plan. If not for ride, then i thought of doing my weekend run next day morning.

That ends our 3rd and the last ride of the tour.


Day 4  17/11/2013 - Kundapura

Someone knocked the door at 5 and it was Supraja asking me where we are going to ride! She is a damn productive girl i say. Nobal and Vipin were acting like sleeping at that time.Finally hearing from the Organizer Nobal, she was convinced that there are no rides planned for the day and it will be mostly sight seeing.

I brushed up, fastened my Garmin and went for the run. I felt ok to run even after 3 days of ride. 
No Pains.No Injuries.So i did my 14KM run in the highway of Coastal region of Kundapura. It was Humid.
I came back. Had breakfast and coffee. By now also, Nobal and Vipin were sleeping at around 8 AM.

Finally everyone woke up, had breakfast and the plans are to go out to kill the time. We took local town bus to visit a temple and then again took a bus to goto Trasi beach Maravanthe, before which we had some snacks in Hotel Court Restaurant near bus stand. We spent good time in the beach walking in the shore in the sand. We finished our lunch there and started back to town to kill some more time in the so called back waters area. I was restless without any activities and so budding the guys , back to hotel all the time.
  




I left to hotel having one more coffee on the way and after some time, everyone reached hotel too. We refreshed ourselves and got ready for the return trip to Bangalore. The bus was at 8:30 PM in Kundapura.
We had a light dinner and rode a kilometer mark to bus stand. Loaded our Bicycles and this time, we paid Rs.360 for 5 bikes as part of luggage cost. At the last minute before boarding, Ambika's new Nokia Lumia fell down and the screen was broken. Not sure about Vipin's contribution towards it :)  The bus reached Bangalore at around 7 AM.

That being said, we carried those 4 days beautiful memories with us to Bangalore. 
Personally, i felt it was very much needed tour for me once in a while and am already looking forward to start my journey to the world of Trekking soon.


Ambika, Nobal, Supraja and Vipin - Thank you for the wonderful company during the whole tour.


Photographs - Click here.Route - Click here.